Hueco tanks interesting bouldering area for problems up to 5c, from 6a to 6c, from 7a to 7c and starting from 8a fontainebleau grades. Climbing destination guide bouldering at hueco tanks state. But the property owners continued to operate it as a tourist destination. Apr 24, 2009 since the first edition of this book was released, hueco tanks has earned a reputation for hosting the best bouldering on the planet, not to mention being a darn good fall, winter and spring cragging area. Each hueco bouldering tour will meet at park headquarters and last all day unless you request otherwise. Dec 15, 2016 climbers of hueco tanks represent the climbing community at hueco. The fascinating history of hueco tanks, the birthplace of. Hueco tanks, tx rock climbing and bouldering 27 crags. In order to minimize the impact to this area we have split this area into three zones and each area can host one full tour at a time. Hueco tanks state park information hueco tanks bouldering. The climbing here is extremely varied, and there is truly something for everyone, at.
This beloved texas landmark is considered the mecca of modern bouldering, with a style of climbing found nowhere else in the world, all set against the backdrop of stark desert and reddishbrown rock. Powered by the national weather service digital forecast database. North mountain has the most dense bouldering but access requires a reservation. There are 70 permits delivered each day for north mountain and 60 are reserved at least 6 months in advance. Rock climbing and bouldering in hueco tanks and texas, usa. Magic hour is an unforgettable experience in huecothe rocks come alive as the day ends. Bouldering at hueco tanks state park, north mountain parking lot. Protect your health and that of others by following state and local orders related to the pandemic. Local historians and area residents worked for years to convert hueco tanks to a park.
Bring a windrain jacket, a warm jacket or hoody, desertresistant pants, good walking shoes, sunscreen, tape, extra chalk, a boars hair brush, shoes, a crash pad or rent one from one of the sites above, and an extra water bottle. Since the first edition of this book was released, hueco tanks has earned a reputation for hosting the best bouldering on the planet, not to mention being a darn. North mountain selfguided, west and east mountain, and east spur. Dec 19, 2015 the 20052006 season witnessed everything from standardsetting first ascents and widespread development of new boulders to repeats of proud and stout established problems, as climbers settled into hueco tanks guided tour policies and north mountain user limitations. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with reallife experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Hueco tanks is recognized as the birthplace of modern bouldering, and the history of the sport is inextricably linked with the park. Bring a fingernail clipper, an emory board, climbing tape, and maybe even some super glue. Hueco tanks is a desert syenite paradise for all levels of boulderers, offering four major areas to climb and explore. The video below captures us climber daniel woods during his best bouldering day ever which took place last march during the hueco rock rodeo 2012, that enlightening festival organised by climbers themselves to raise funds for the hueco tanks state park so as to promote, conserve and improve the climbing in the historic area in texas. Ghetto simulator, lobster claw, sign of the cross, mousie adame, fern roof. Blue lizard climbing and yoga offers hueco tanks bouldering guided tours, private and group yoga classes, and yoga retreats. You have to show up at the gate of the park early to try your luck at the other 10. Please practice social distancing even when outdoors. Hueco tanks bouldering faq blue lizard climbing and yoga.
Military units from nearby fort bliss trained at hueco tanks in the 1940s and 1950s. Named for the natural rock basins that capture desert. Although there are some great climbing routes at hueco pronounced wayco tanks, it is the bouldering that im going to talk about today. Bouldering at hueco tanks state park, north mountain. The book has sections covering the geology, wildlife, natural, cultural and climbing history of hueco tanks, inspirational essays by fred nicole, john sherman, todd skinner, liv sansoz, and scott milton, and all the beta on huecos new rules and regulations. Jafets place was convenient for a short climbing trip to hueco tanks. On your first trip, dont get frustrated if you end up climbing one to two grades below your gym grade. For the value it was convenient, restroom was interesting yet hot water stayed hot which was nice. Falcon hueco tanks climbing and bouldering since the first edition of this book was released, hueco tanks has earned a reputation for hosting the best bouldering on the planet, not to mention being a darn good fall, winter and spring cragging area. Hueco tanks climbing and bouldering guide by john sherman. Hueco tanks is home to worldclass bouldering tpw magazine. Hueco tanks is described by mountain project as the best bouldering spot in the world. The best bouldering in the world, hueco is amazing, but you gotta.
Mountain project s determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. Climbers of hueco tanks represent the climbing community at hueco. Nov 16, 2012 the climbers of hueco tanks coalition in conjunction with hueco tanks state park has worked out a plan for the east spur maze. Hueco is one of the most sacred places i have ever visitedthe history, the rock art, and the. All new bouldering guide to hueco tanks features 850 problems in the north. The completely revamped second edition of this cult classic is greatly expanded and essential for such a complicated area. The history of climbing at hueco tanks would require hundreds of pages, and include the birth of modern bouldering and the nowubiquitous vscale.
Wagon wheel coopt is a great option for tours north side of mushroom boulder permanently closed. Hueco tanks is one of those climbing destinations that if you enjoy bouldering should be high on your list of places to climb at. Hueco is a spanish word meaning hollows and refers to the many waterholding depressions in the boulders and rock. Rock climbing routes in hueco tanks state historic site, west. Printed in color it features over 300 photographs showcasing every area in the park. Wagonwheel coopt provides bouldering, running, hiking, and yoga tours at hueco tanks state historical site, a world renowned rock climbing and bouldering area. Get an overview of rock climbing and bouldering in the area of hueco tanks, tx, usa. Much has changed at hueco since the 2004 first edition. Here are 21 classic hueco tanks boulder problems to get you psyched for the 24th annual hueco rock rodeo this weekend february 10 12. Climbers of hueco tanks coalition hueco rock ranch status. The climbers of hueco tanks coalition is dedicated to preserving and enhancing rock climbing at hueco tanks historic site. Hueco tanks is one of the best and most famous bouldering areas in the world.
In order to minimize the impact to this area we have split this area into three zones and each area can host one full tour at. North mountain phase1 30% complete our goal is to provide a comprehensive online reference of every known boulder problem and route at. Footage from march 2006 in hueco tanks state park, tx. Hueco tanks state park has closed until april 30th due to covid19. The heavily featured rock provides every type of hold imaginable. Since the first edition of this book was released, hueco tanks has earned a reputation for hosting the best bouldering on the planet, not to mention being a darn good fall, winter and spring cragging area. Dec 12, 2015 ghetto simulator, lobster claw, sign of the cross, mousie adame, fern roof. The climbers of hueco tanks coalition in conjunction with hueco tanks state park has worked out a plan for the east spur maze. Climbing in hueco tanks, hueco tanks mountain project. Showers, communal hang out area, and good company around the fire are included.
The climbing here is extremely varied, and there is truly something for everyone, at every grade. The 20052006 season witnessed everything from standardsetting first ascents and widespread development of new boulders to repeats of proud and stout established problems, as climbers settled into hueco tanks guided tour policies and north mountain user limitations. Named for the large geologic formations in the rock, hueco offers climbing and world class bouldering for climbers of. Born of molten rock from the earths interior more than 30 million years ago and stripped bare by the ebb and flow of subsequent weathering and erosion, the three massive granitic hills that we now call hueco tanks rise like an island more than 400 feet above the chihuahuan desert floor in far west texas. The book has sections covering the geology, wildlife, natural, cultural and climbing history of hueco tanks, inspirational essays by fred nicole, john sherman, todd skinner, liv sansoz, and scott milton, and all the beta on hueco s new rules and regulations.
Considering the number of international visitors each year from as far as europe and asia, an argument could be made that hueco tanks is the worlds bouldering mecca. Heinz duerkop killed in cowardly hitandrun on june 21, 2009. The sports of climbing and bouldering are not governed by strict rules. Hueco tanks volume 1 north mountain wolverine publishing. This guidebook also contains the smaller number of roped bolted climbs within the park as well as the extensive boulder problems. Dec 25, 2007 footage from march 2006 in hueco tanks state park, tx.
It wont be easy climbing and it is guaranteed to challenge you and make you work for it, but if youre lucky youll get a send in one of the most epic bouldering locations in the united states. In 1957, the legislature approved creation of a state park on the site. American alpine club now owns the hueco rock ranch. Therefore, we have closed all rentals until the order has lifted. Mar 30, 2006 the hueco rock ranch offers climbers a friendly place to stay while spending time at hueco tanks. Students of climbing history will marvel at the problems established without crash pads by john sherman and bob murray, and the standarddefining contributions of fred nicole and chris sharma. However, due to the sensitive nature of hueco tanks state park and historic site, we ask all climbers and nonclimbers to follow the appropriate behavior below when visiting the park. Matt wilders hueco tanks guidebook from wolverine publishing is the. Bouldering in hueco tanks usually requires either reservations or volunteer or commercial guides. Just let me know when and where youd like to climb and ill get back to you asap. Falcon hueco tanks climbing and bouldering guide books.
Hueco tanks has the distinction of being the first climbing destination where people went mainly to boulder rather than climb tall cliffs. East and west mountain also offer amazing climbing, but you are required to have a guide to gain entrance to those mountains. In the 1990s, bouldering came into its own as a separate climbing discipline. Read on for more information about accessing hueco tanks and to schedule a tour with us. Its about 15 minutes away and breakfast at his restaurant before climbing was great. Hueco tanks is comprised of 3 mountains and 1 spur a lateral offshoot of a mountain. The hueco rock ranch offers climbers a friendly place to stay while spending time at hueco tanks. Jason kehl and ty foose are developing a new guidebook, but it has not been released yet. North mountain phase1 30% complete our goal is to provide a comprehensive online reference of every known boulder problem and route at hueco tanks. In fact, according to john sherman who has written a local guide book, he calls it simply the best bouldering in america. Touchstone climbers travel to texas to climb at the bouldering mecca, hueco tanks. If you are a guide, please take note of these changes. Rock climbing area hueco tanks info, betas, location.